Monday, September 15, 2008

KITCHEN GODS


The water heater nestles in the center of every American home, like a Minuteman missile resting in a silo beneath some wind-swept Nebraska prairie, unheralded but ready to spring into action at a moment’s notice.


It is not that way in Portugal. First, the houses are much smaller, and second, energy is expensive here. So, while an average American home may house a missile-sized water heater, in Portugal there is a small suitcase fixed to the kitchen wall for all to see and admire. The really good suitcases have dozens of exposed pipes sticking out of the bottom and disappearing into the wall. They’re made by companies like Junkers, who I thought specialized solely in dive-bombers used to terrify fleeing Polish peasants and so give the Germans more space in which to live and build Volkswagens.


When buying a water heater, in Portuguese grandly called a termoaculador - not to be said at speed, lest you spit all over your friends - several choices are offered. They are as follows:
A) A heater that when turned on makes a loud ‘Woof,’ then mumbles while it produces a little bit of warm water.
B) A heater that when turned on makes a quiet ‘Woof,’ then mumbles while it produces a little bit of warm water.
C) A heater that makes no sound and produces constant hot water. This one has been discontinued, all models destroyed, the factory razed to the ground and the plans sent to China.
What you cannot have under any circumstances or at any price is a heater that delivers constant hot water.


Heaters A and B will offer a quick shot of water at 200 C to inspire hope, but that, by government mandate, may not last more than two seconds. Also by mandate it must, must, must, be followed instantly by a concentrated jet of ice-cold water - or nothing at all but a sarcastic gurgling from the tank.


There is a reason for this disparity between Portugal and the United States and it can be traced directly back to Adolf Hitler’s misguided pursuit of Aryan supremacy. No doubt you remember when Teflon-coated pots and pens that wrote upside down in six hundred fathoms of saltwater first arrived on the market. They were, we were told, the happy by-products of missile and space research. I never really believed that.


At the end of WWII the Americans nabbed rocket scientist Werner von Braun and his assistants from Nazi Germany and spirited them to the States. There they worked on the American space program, and in doing so also created Teflon, submersible pens and large water heaters, while the Europeans were left destitute. Without Werner von Braun’s genius, the European space program and water heater evolution were crippled. They’ve never managed to catch up since and that’s exactly why there’s no hot water in Portugal and the rest of Europe. It’s also why European cooks constantly burn the food and for communication Mediterranean divers must resort to sign language or a hammer, chisel and block of marble after sinking past the first fathom.


Now for Zeus. You don’t come much mightier than him. My termoaculador(I think I made this word up is called Zeus, who I had not realized was the god of water heaters. There seems to be a logic flaw in naming a water heater after him, particularly a European heater. The Greek gods lived in the sky above Greece, which is a hot country, so they probably never worried about the cold, and I don’t know if they ever needed to shower anyway. Surely if you’re a god you can just say - “Dirt, be gone! I command you to stay away from my godly body!” - and it would be so. And I can’t imagine Zeus working out and sweating. I appreciate that Zeus sounds powerful, but why not call the heater Nanook? After all the Eskimos know a thing or two about staying warm.


Then there’s Thor. He’s a clothes washer at the other end of my kitchen. By amazing coincidence, two separate manufacturers came up with Greek gods’ names for their entirely different products, and while I can(very)vaguely follow the logic behind connecting mighty Zeus and heating water, Thor has me floored. I thought Thor was the guy who was always chucking hammers around when he got mad and what that has to do with washing my underwear escapes me. Not that it washes all my underwear at once anyway. This is still Europe, remember.


Back to the US of A for an educational moment. There the washing machine has a room of its own, not the kitchen, and it’s a very simple machine. You jam in all your family’s clothes until there’s no space left, turn it to super-hot and walk away. Ten seconds later you open it up, take out the clothes, stuff them into a dryer, turn that to nuclear super-hot and walk away until they’re cooked. It’s all over in twenty minutes.


Not so here. First, there is no such thing as a dryer anywhere in Europe; you hang your washing up on a line or drape it out the windows. Get over it, that’s life.


Thor is not a large machine. It can hold six kilos of clothes, which translates to one T-shirt (short-sleeved), one pair of Calvin Klein underwear (not boxers, too much fabric) and a sock, left or right, doesn’t matter which, but not both. Once loaded and switched on, the Thor cannot be stopped, short of blasting it with a shotgun. The door is locked and nothing will pry it open. This is an example of European engineering at its best.


Activated, Thor begins to work his magic - but only if you don’t look at it. First, nothing happens. Then there’s a cough from deep inside the machine and the clothes flip over. Then silence again, followed by the sound of gurgling water - the sound of, not necessarily actual water. The clothes flip over once more, the gurgle, gurgle sound happens again, and then more silence. This routine goes on for about four hours until finally Thor slams into a spin cycle that sounds just like an F-18 on full afterburner. It whines so loud it scares cats, shatters glass and alerts dogs for miles around. Wisdom suggests getting far away from the machine at this point.


Just as you’re sure Thor is going to launch itself right through the kitchen wall, it suddenly stops dead. No sound, no movement, no denouement. Nothing. It’s as if it had a heart attack and expired. A female friend of mine says it reminds her of her ex-husband in bed - all power, glory and great intentions, then crash, finished, fast asleep and snoring like an asthmatic walrus.
That’s about what you can expect with a Portuguese kitchen full of Greek god appliances.